Çukurcuma

We are in one of the most unique areas of Beyoglu. We wander the streets between Cihangir-Galatasaray-Tophane triangle, where Local Makers’ store is located. Faik Pasha with its impressive architecture, Çukurcuma Streets with its baths and antique shops are our center.

Çukurcuma was originally an empty land during the Byzantine period, but was opened to settlement by the Ottomans. It is rumored that the name of the district came from the Friday prayers of Mehmed the Conqueror in this valley during the conquest of Istanbul in 1453.

One of the oldest buildings in the area is Muhittin Molla Fenari Mosque, also known as Çukurcuma Mosque. Dating back to the Fatih period, this mosque was actually built between 1541 and 1547 to the design of Mimar Sinan for Şeyhülislam Çivizade Hacı Mehmed Efendi.

In the 19th century, Çukurcuma began to develop as a settlement, a neighborhood inhabited by Turks as well as Armenians, Greeks and Western Europeans.

Çukurcuma was badly damaged during Istanbul Pogrom (the September 6-7 events) in 1955 and most of the remaining Turkish Greeks and Armenians left the country afterwards.

Since 2012, the neighborhood has also been home to Orhan Pamuk’s Museum of Innocence.

In this guide, we’ve listed not only culinary destinations, but also buildings worth exploring, galleries and art spaces, antique shops and our favorite shops.

 

Table of Contents

Good Food Guide

Restaurants:

  • Nicole Restaurant
  • Hodan İstanbul
  • 47 Tapas Meze
  • Tomtom Kebap
  • Reyhun Restaurant – Iranian cuisine
  • 49 Cukurcuma – Pizza and wine
  • Zerze Cihangir
  • Mayko Meze House
  • No 19 Dining
  • Olea Pizzeria

Breakfast

  • Nørre

Bars

  • The Popstel
  • Noh Radio
  • Markus Tavern
  • Fleck Cocktail Bar
  • Solera Winery – Wine bar

Coffee and Dessert

  • Rutin
  • Müz
  • Chado
  • Probador Colectiva
  • 9 Kahve
  • Loved Gelato – Ice cream (moved to Anatolian Side)

Cukurcuma Travel Guide

Shops, workshops and antique shops:

  • Local Makers
  • Homer Bookstore
  • Asri Turşucu
  • Kontraplak
  • Deform Müzik
  • 3rd Culture
  • Turkish Modern
  • Tiftix
  • Kare Deri
  • Seraphic Ceramics
  • Otto Tiles
  • Avni Akmehmedoğlu Workshop
  • Çıplak Ayaklar Kumpanyası
  • Mod Atölye
  • Cihangir Antik
  • Kale Antik
  • Berol Antik
  • Karadeniz Antik
  • Tombak Antika
  • Osmanlı Antik Palas
  • Feraye Antik
  • Doğu Antik
  • Mozk Vintage

Museums, and other attractions:

  • Museum of Innocence
  • Hamamhane
  • REM Art Space
  • C.A.M. Gallery
  • Büyükdere 35
  • Alaturca House
  • Karagözek – Karagöz artist

47 Tapas Meze

We are in Çukurcuma, Beyoğlu, which fascinates us with its impressive architecture and where we love to wander through the narrow streets with antique shops and galleries.

47 Tapas Meze is one of the newest in Cukurcuma. It’s a place we recently discovered, but we look for an excuse to visit often.

The menu consists of small plates suitable for sharing. Just the way tapas should be. The freshest vegetables and fish of the season are skillfully processed.

The whole story is happening right in front of your eyes. That’s the most enjoyable part of it. You can watch the chef at work in the kitchen behind the bar. Details we miss, reminiscent of the tapas bars in Barcelona.

47 Tapas Meze is no less. Their plates of fresh seafood are delicious. Anchovy butter, salmon gravlax and ceviche are our favorites.

Let’s also say that the place has a small menu like itself. Although there are vegetarian options such as hummus served with Yedikule lettuce, Melanzane and Kibbeh, we can say that their menu is mainly seafood. Tapas range between 75-220₺.

The drinks menu also offers a good selection of accompaniments to tapas. It is also very pleasant to watch the street while snacking on the charcuterie and cheese platter.
You can find this sweet place at No:47 on Faik Pasha, one of the beautiful streets of Çukurcumaçm.

Hodan İstanbul

Hodan takes its name from a plant consumed throughout Anatolia and the Mediterranean. Hodan is a plant that was given to soldiers going to war because it was believed to give courage in the past, and you can also find it in some flavors on their menus.

Hodan, which reinterprets local flavors and brings Turkish food to the customer with a contemporary presentation, provides the perfect setting for Istanbul’s summer evenings with its garden and white-covered tables.

🍸We tried Leyla with hash brown flowers and kombucha and Hodan prepared with sorrel. Leyla we think is worth a try.

🍽 We can say that we were very satisfied with the interest of the staff and the service we received. Before the meal, delicious slices of warm bread and snack chips made from fava beans with tomato paste are served.

🥘 One of the restaurant’s most recommended dishes, Crispy Artichokes and Sauteed Hodan Grass is worth a try. One of their salads, Pirpirim Sour, is served with cherry sorbet and koruk, for sour lovers. 👌🏻

🍕 If flavors like Konya Küflü cheese, known for its dominant taste, are for you, you can try Konya Küflüsü served on a thin pizzetta dough. Other options for these pizzettas from the ‘Stone Oven’: Istanbul Style Kokoreç & Beef Shank. Among the main courses, our choices were Musket Meatballs and Beef Entrecote.

👩🏼‍🍳 At Hodan, where Çiğdem Seferoğlu is the founder and also the chef, plants such as thyme, mint, basil and rosemary are planted in the backyard. In an interview, Seferoğlu summarizes the reason for opening Hodan as follows: “There are many Europeans living in Istanbul. At Hodan, we want to explain that Turkish cuisine is not just about kebabs. Nothing I don’t feed to my son at home will be served in the restaurant. The right flavors will be served in season.”

🍲 At Hodan, where the menu changes according to the season, it is difficult to find a place without a reservation. This is the right time to go as Istanbul is empty at the moment!

Nørre

Before starting our walks for the guide, we met at @norreist

This is a small place opened by 3 close friends in Çukurcuma, where we often visit to satisfy our longing for Denmark. We are teleported to Atelier September, Copenhagen’s world-famous breakfast place with its menu and small touches in its interior design.

The menu consists of daily baked goods and minimal breakfast plates. We loved all the flavors we tried for breakfast. We love minimalist breakfast ideas like çılbır flavored with Çemen oil, scrambled eggs with cheese and spinach on toast (Spinach Brød) and avocado, toast and butter duo, poached eggs (Hej Avocado).

Congratulations to the @norreist team for serving these simple dishes in a tiny kitchen, so delicious and exactly as they should be.

Our favorite of the desserts was the peach pie, which we could never take a photo of because we quickly consumed it by smashing it as soon as it came out of the oven.

The place is quite small, with a small mezzanine. Recommended for a nordic coffee date or fika experience in Cukurcuma. The place is closed on Monday, be warned.

In Pursuit of a Lokal: Çukurcuma with Nagehan

We joined hands as Local Makers & Kişniş Vesaire. Our route is drawn by our favorite Nagehan from the Local Makers team. Daily routines, discoveries from the neighborhood, antique shops we get lost in, small flavor stops, we follow Nagehan.

Nagehan has been part of the Local Makers family for three years and is responsible for the coordination of the Makers and our shop in Çukurcuma. She enjoys the energy of the shop, getting to know new people, telling stories of producers and sharing their happiness.

For him, Çukurcuma is more than just a neighborhood where he comes for work. Art galleries, antique shops, design shops are his favorite places to spend time.

The streets of this neighborhood are as lively at night as they are during the day. It is highly likely that you will see Nagehan after work having fun with her friends in one of the neighborhood cocktail bars or enjoying herself in a restaurant.

We had a pleasant interview with Nagehan where we talked about herself, her routines, what she likes in the neighborhood and her favorite products in the shop.

 

  • Can you tell us a little bit about yourself? In short, what does Nagehan do, what are you doing these days?

I am a person who loves traveling, dancing, spending time in nature, trying to balance mobility and stagnation in my life. In addition to Local Makers, I am interested in the Prickly Pears brand that I founded with my brother. I try to do Pilates, yoga and meditation at least once a week. I socialize with my friends, if there is a good exhibition or concert, I try to attend as much as possible. Currently, I am taking Good4Trust’s Fair Trademark training. I also take care of my newly adopted puppy.

  • What do you do at Local Makers, how long have you been with the team?

I ensure communication and coordination with our makers. I’m also working at the shop in Cukurcuma. I love the energy of the shop. It is very enjoyable to meet new and interesting people, to tell them about our Makers and their products, and to see them happy when they buy them. For 3 years I have been a member of this beautiful family ☺

 

  • Where else do you spend your time in Çukurcuma? Do you have any special corners that you like?

I love spending time in the art galleries, antique shops and design shops in Çukurcuma. I enjoy browsing the shops and chatting with shopkeepers. C.A.M. Galeri, 3rd Culture, Berol Antik my favorite corners. But my favorite is the street itself in summer… The sound of backgammon played by shopkeepers, the hustle and bustle of Çukurcuma, its people and cats…

  • Are there any places / habits that have become a routine, that you visit before or after work?

If I’m not going home after work, I’m somewhere with my friends. Flekk in winter for cocktails, Geyik in summer, and Markus Tavern when music and dancing is what you crave. I also sit at Mellow and watch the passersby ☺ I try not to buy live flowers except for potted plants, but some mornings, if it is open, I stop by Constantina Pera on my way to look at its wonderful flowers. If it is closed, I look at whatever flower is in the window and open my eyes and heart!

  • What are your favorite products from the shop?

First of all, I love all the products in the shop, but of course I have my personal favorites.Abtira Garden –Blush Elixir, Homemade Aromaterapi- Mini Chakra Set, Prickly Pears – Classic Grey Peştamel, The North Fox- Jasmine Mum, Galene – Herd Fular, Rojok- Gül | Kekik | Yaban Mersini, Aurora Craft- Shaman Tütsü

  • Finally, are there any recent innovations or changes in your life that excite you?

Of course I do ☺ I have a very sweet puppy in my life right now. Watching it, playing with it, raising it, bonding with a different creature is very exciting indeed. I have a lot to learn from him. I can’t wait for the adventures ahead!

Arama

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