A city on the west coast of Turkey, known as the pearl of the Aegean Sea, famous for its historical and natural beauties: Izmir
It has been home to many civilizations throughout thousands of years of history and has a rich cultural texture. Places such as the ancient Agora, the ruins of Smyrna, Kadifekale are places that shed light on history in the center of the city.
In this guide, we will not be limited to Alsancak, which we can call the heart of Izmir, but we will take a journey to different districts of Izmir. Izmir is full of routes waiting to be discovered, stretching from Kemeraltı, Karşıyaka, Bornova and Buca!
Kordon, the Historical Port City and Kemeraltı Bazaar, Levantine mansions and Hans dating back to the 1800s, and the fairgrounds are important symbols in the cultural life of the city.
Izmir is one of the cities offering the best examples of Aegean cuisine; Olive oil dishes, herbs, seasonal vegetables and seafood form the basis of this cuisine. Boyoz, kumru, Izmir meatballs, artichoke are the most iconic flavors of the city.
Before you start Urla and Çeşme plans can check out our guides. Click here to view all other Izmir guides.
Let’s discover our favorite flavor stops in Izmir together!
Some of our favorite restaurants are Balmumu Lokanta in Alsancak, Boho Lokal, Ayşa Bosnian Börekci, Kısmet Lokantası in Kemeraltı, Zaim Usta in Bornova…
Especially as a patisserie, there are places that have become brands and classics in Izmir. Reyhan Patisserie and Sevinç Patisserie in Alsancak are two of the best examples. While our personal favorites are the newer generation ones, these are the places that are embedded in the memory of the city.
Arpege, Marilen Atelier, Neuf Patisserie are our favorites among Izmir patisseries. Gizem Kuzu Bakery is another place we definitely stop by every time we visit. Berliner in particular sells out very quickly here.
Although our love for croissants is criticized, there are bakeries in Izmir that make good croissants. Smör the Bakery and Leone Patisserie & Boulangerie for croissants and I’m Bread for its breads are our favorite bakeries.
Full list of our favorite places!
Restaurants:
– Yasef’in Meyhanesi – Tasty appetisers and meat dishes
– İzmir Deniz Restaurant – One of the quality restaurants on the promenade
– Buke Garni Restaurant – a good chef restaurant
– Roku Sushi Omakase
– Sevince Lokantası
– Balmumu Lokanta – olive oil dishes and casseroles
– Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi – Bosnian home-cooking in Alsancak
– Boho Lokal – olive oil dishes daily dishes
– Ziyade – Ideal for Ali Nazik and kebab-type dishes
– Zaim Usta – a creative artisan restaurant
– Köfteci Erol, Karşıyaka
– Dönerci Kenan, Karabağlar – you are guaranteed to wait in line
– Kokoreççi Asım, Bornova – A popular kokoreççi in Izmir
– Kebab 74, Bornova- meatballs, lentil soup, grills, simple but delicious
Bakery, Dessert / Croissant:
– Neuf Patiserrie
– I’m Bread
– Smör Bakery
– Gizem Kuzu
– Arpege Patisserie
– Odelato Gelato – A quality ice cream place
– Leone Patisserie
– Marilen Atelier Patisserie
– Nanua Bakery –Ideal for gluten-free & healthy options
Burger/Pizza/Pasta:
– Nappo, Mavişehir
– Vetti Burger,Alsancak – Smash Burger & Cheese Burger
– Kupika,Karşıyaka – fresh pasta and pizza doughs are successful, ingredient quality could be better.
– Bitte,Karşıyaka – The chicken burger is successful.
Bar/Pub:
– Rast,Atakent – A pleasant beer garden
– Kuntra Wine Bar, Atakent – A wine bar we love
– La Puerta,Alsancak – a pleasant pub in the center
– Kepler Pavilion, Alsancak
Breakfast:
– Zeynel Ergin Gevrek Fırını, Alsancak
– Konya Mandırası, Konak
– Yıldız Katmer, Karşıyaka
Coffeeshops:
– Lot Coffee
– Two Cups
– Coffeerem
– By The Way Coffee
– Be Water Coffee & Bookstore
Kemeraltı / Basmane :
– Kısmet Lokantası
– Bizim Lokanta
– Komposto
– Kuyum Pide
– Numan Pide
– Gül Kebap
– Doyuran Kebap
– Osman Usta Antalya Börekçisi
– Söğüşcü Celal ve Oğulları
– Süt Çiçeği
– Hisarönü Şambalicisi
– Elgani Ezmecizade
– Öztat Kardeşler
When to go to Izmir? The best time to visit is spring and fall months. Known for its hot climate, this Aegean metropolis gets extremely hot in summer. We can say that the summer months are not very lively as the city dwellers move more towards the coastline.
How many days? There is no end of places to visit and neighborhoods to explore, but we think you should spare at least 3-4. If you are planning to explore nearby ancient cities (such as Ephesus, Pergamon) or natural beauties, you may need to extend this period even more.
Where to stay?
Alsancak – The most popular area of the city, full of hotels, restaurants, bars, shopping shops. Ideal for those who want to stay in the city center.
Konak – Close to historical sites, Kemeralti bazaar, landmarks such as the Clock Tower. Basmane also has a hotel district, although it is not well preserved.
Karsiyaka – a characteristic neighborhood located in the north of the Gulf; You can easily reach by Izban, ferry or private car. Bostanlı and Karşıyaka are relatively quieter.
Ancient Cities and Historical Remains:
Museums:
Cultural and Historical Buildings:
One of the most visited places in Izmir is Historic Kemeraltı Bazaar.
Let’s talk about our favorite flavor stops first:
Pide – Kuyum Pide and Numan Pide are two of the most popular addresses. Our favorite is Kuyum but Numan is not bad either. Especially the tahini..
Kebab – Our favorite is Gül Kebap, a family-run business since 1949, and the other option is Doyuran.
Börek – Osman Usta Antalya Börekçisi It is a shop we visit every time we go there with its herbed cheese pastry.
Olive oil & pot dishes – Kısmet Lokantası especially şevketibostan and onion kebab are successful. For home cooking Komposto is another address we love.
Soup – Bizim Lokanta’ for fish soup.
Söğüş – You can find one of the favorite foods of Izmir residents in most places, Söğüşcü Celal and Oğulları.
Dessert – Süt Çiçeği for Kazandibi, and Hisarönü Şambalici..
For Almond/Pistachio Paste Elgani Ezmecizade
History of the Bazaar:
When we look at the ancient sources, it is known that there was an inner harbor in the middle of the city settlement here for a very long time. Kemeraltı appears as a fortress defending this harbor. A 12th century Byzantine structure, this castle has always been known by different names; Neon Kastron, Genoese Castle, Castrum Symrnarum, Castrum Symrnarum, St. Petros Castle, and during the Ottoman period, Yeni İzmir Castle, Hisar, Onion Castle.
Its streets, positioned in an arc on the coastal line, which was frequently filled in during different periods, are seen as traces of a settlement shaped according to this inner harbor in Roman times.
The port is the center of life, as well as the westernmost point of the city where trade routes terminate. There have been trading houses and caravanserais here throughout history; Built in 1744, Kızlarağası Inn is one of these buildings;
Although its appearance has changed over time, the mosques, especially at the intersection of the streets in the bazaar, are the structures where we can trace the traces of this history. As you wander through the streets that were once covered, you can get lost in the inns that bear witness to history. Abacıoğlu Han, Arap Han. Karaosmanoglu Han etc.
Jews who migrated to Izmir in the 1600s, when it became an important port for foreign trade in the Ottoman Empire, settled mainly around Havra Sk and Agora. You can also see many Synagogues in the area.
Our 9 favorite breakfast places in Izmir!
Those of you who have been following us for a while now know that we like simpler, one-dish breakfasts where the product stands out, rather than mixed breakfast tables.
Zeynel Ergin Gevrek Fırını A classic in Alsancak. We stop by every time we visit, if you wish, you can have a quick breakfast with small accompaniments with kumru or boyoz.
Konya Mandırası Kahvaltı Salonu on the other hand, stands out with dairy products in Yenişehir. It reminds us of the Doyuran Breakfast in Eskişehir. The fried eggs and clotted cream are delicious, but it’s a bit like mass production.
Smör, A colorful bakery in the back streets of Bostanlı. You can go for croissants, focaccias, sandwiches and nata if you like it. We can’t find the garlic croissant they used to make on the counter for a while, maybe they will make it again if we all insist.
Neuf Patisserie, It is also in Bostanlı and has a larger seating area. Croissants and their derivatives, specifically Cruffin, are very successful.
Gizem Kuzu Bakery, may be the most popular on the list. They started with a special order and grew step by step. There is little variety and a lot of labor. As such, the quality does not change. The products end early, you can start with quiche in the morning and continue with berliner. Their coffee is also tasty.
Osman Usta Antalya Börekci. The little pastry shop we visit every time we are in Kemeraltı. Their pastries are made from a lean dough, our favorite of the pastries they prepare to order is the one with herbed cheese. Cheeses 👌🏻
I’m Bread Bakery and back to Karsiyaka. Their breads, pretzels and focaccias are tasty. All products to take home. Moreover, they have extremely entertaining recipe videos on their Youtube channel. You know, if you say, “I’ll do it myself at home.”
Yıldız Katmer. Akhisar’s famous flavor is katmer prepared with eggs, cheese and phyllo dough. It has the same owners as the shop in Akhisar. The family is in Akhisar and their son is in Karsiyaka.
Leone Patisserie&Boulangerie. It is now one of the places that everyone who has been to Izmir knows. They have branches in Konak, Urla and I think Karsiyaka. Their breakfast menu is extensive but we usually prefer their croissants.
In the 19th century, Izmir became one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean and received high immigration from Europe. During this period, Turks, Greeks, Armenians, Jews and Levantines lived a multi-identity life side by side.
When we research who the Levantines are, we find that although they are often generalized as non-Muslim minorities in our country, they are different from the Greek, Armenian and Jewish communities in the Ottoman Empire. Levantines are mostly composed of merchants and their families who migrated eastward from Italy, England, Scotland, the Netherlands and France.
This migration can be thought to have started with the Treaty of Nif (1261), when Byzantium granted rights to the Genoese in these lands, as described in the exhibition In Praise of Multiple Identities at Bayetav Sanat. In fact, this migration goes back much further than that.
Levantines are far from nationalism. Their biggest point of divergence with the Greeks, Armenians and Jews is that they have no collective political demands. As a result, they are not seen as a threat by the Turkish nation state.
Levantines felt less pressure than other groups. Despite this, the main reason for the rapid decline of the Levantine population is seen as the government’s tax regulations and laws that prevented non-Turks from practicing professions such as tradesmen, artisans, lawyers and doctors.
The exhibition on the Levantines of Izmir at Bayetav Art and interviews with Levantines show that they collectively embraced multi-identity, coexistence and Izmirism instead of nationalism.
This information is from Bayetav Sanat’s exhibition at Fernand Pagy Mansion in Bornova. The 19th century mansion of the Pagy family is one of the only surviving Levantine mansions in Bornova.
Aliberti, Paterson, Bardisbanian, Whittall, Belhomme, Giraud, De Andria, Mattheys are other surviving mansions. Some of the mansions have been transformed into cultural and artistic venues, some function for other purposes, while others are not in use or are closed to visitors.
Miniatures of the surviving mansions by artist Verda Sipahi can be seen in the garden of Arkas Mattheys Mansion can be seen in his garden.
One of the important culture and arts venues of Izmir, Opened after 5 years of restoration, Arkas Art Bornova. #kişnişvsizmir
This is the Mattheys Mansion in Bornova, built in 1780 by John Maltass and visited by Atatürk in 1922.
A collection of fine examples of hand weaving and carpet weaving, which occupies an important part of Anatolia’s cultural heritage, is on display here. This collection includes Anatolian carpets that have been a sign of wealth, status and prestige throughout history, that have traveled to the four corners of the world and inspired artists.
The garden of the mansion is particularly delightful. In its garden, there are models of 9 mansions full of stories that have been preserved until today. As you walk among the models, you will also see symbols made of stone, these designs belong to Verda Sipahi. Each one tells a story with the pavilion it is associated with.
One of the stories is “Aliberti Mansion and the Soccer Ball”
James La Fontaine, who lived in the Aliberti mansion for a while, organized a league in the 1890s in which Greek and Armenian teams from Izmir participated until 1922. The organization is the first football league in Turkey, the ‘James La Fontaine Sunday League’.
Other small buildings that were part of the pavilion have also been repurposed; It even has a cute cafe, and although we didn’t find it impressive in terms of cuisine, it was a great place to spend time.
Arkas has three other venues, Arkas Art Center in Alsancak, Arkas Maritime History Center in Bornova and Arkas Art Urla in Urla.
Arkas Sanat Bornova is open every day except Monday between 10.00-18.00, admission 50₺. Tuesdays are free.
1 day in Buca and the notes we took! #kişnişvesaire
When we follow the traces of Izmir Levantines, we come across Bornova and Buca, the two districts where they are concentrated. Boudja, as it is called in ancient sources, has various buildings reflecting the historical texture of Izmir, although it is not well known for this aspect.
– Dating back to the Roman period, Kızılçullu aqueducts were built to meet the water needs of Izmir and are among the oldest monuments in Buca that have survived to the present day. Long before the Levantines too.
– The 19th and early 20th century Levantine mansions are the most characteristic buildings of Buca;
– Some of these mansions, usually built by wealthy Levantine merchants, are now used for different purposes.
They mostly serve as educational institutions or cultural and art venues.
– Hacı Davut Fargoh Mansion, popularly known as the Pink Mansion, is now the Buca Culture and Arts Center.
– As you wander the historic streets of Buca, you will also come across churches. St. Jean Baptist Latin Catholic Church and Buca Protestant Baptist Church. Most of these buildings are in Dumlupinar, one of the oldest neighborhoods; We have read from various sources that it used to be much more than that.
– The most impressively detailed of the buildings in Buca is the Russo Mansion, which belonged to Christian Russo in 1895.
– Baltazzi Mansion, where Sultan Abdülmecit was hosted in 1856 and Sultan Abdülaziz in 1863, is another important building; We believe it still belongs to Mehmet Akif Inan Anatolian High School.
– The Forbes mansion was built in 1908 by a Scottish family. One of the important streets of Buca is named after this family.
–Rees Mansion, Dejongh Mansion, Gavrili Mansion, Barf Mansion, Hanson Mansion are some of the surviving mansions. Many others have been lost and have not survived.
– Most of the Levantines living in Buca moved during the war period. Although some of them returned during the period when the new government was open to foreign capital, they are slowly moving to different neighborhoods of Izmir and Europe as a result of changing country policies.
From a countryside full of olive groves and orchards to urbanization.
Can you imagine that there was a time when the Karsiyaka coast had sea baths?
In fact, the structures called baths or sea baths continued to exist in the late Ottoman and early Republican years until recently.
There was even a beach in Alaybey, one of the first settlements. Karsiyaka, where only beachfront houses are located on certain islands, is not a reality today.
One of the biggest reasons for this is the filling of the coast with projects that started in the 1950s. Two mansions (Penetti and Aliotti) that should have been on the beach but are now behind the road are among the important buildings that have survived.
When we look at the old descriptions of this region, we see that it is described with forests and olive groves at the foot of Mount Yamanlar. Bostanlı, on the other hand, is called Bostanlı because it was a pier where watermelons and melons (colloquially called bostan) grown in the Menemen Plain were transported by camels and horse carts during the summer months and distributed to ships.
Kordelya, the old name of Karşıyaka, comes from a commander. – During the Crusades, the armies of Richard the Lionhearted stayed in a forested area in Karsiyaka; That is why this region was named Coeur de Lion, which means ‘Lion-Heart’ in French. Over time it changed to Cordelieu, Cordelion, Cordelia.
Routes from Izmir that you can visit for a day trip but would like to stay longer:
– Caferli, Kusadasi: A small village south of Izmir that we love. You can see the Kusadasi National Park and the Değirmen Farm, and spend a delicious evening at the Çiy Restaurant and Guest House. For dinner, keep in mind Bottarga in Kusadasi.
– Bayındır, İzmir : One of the districts of Izmir with an old Greek settlement; You can come to this district, which is famous for its nursery, on a Friday when the neighborhood market is established. Its renovated historic streets can be explored. But we think you should really go for those tiny pitas they call etli ekmek. Save Efeoğlu Pide and Katmerci Ahmet.
– Özbek, Urla: It is a very quiet village that we have previously included in our Urla guide. Especially when coming here from Urla, the road is surrounded by magnificent trees, on the beach Can’ın Yeri or the more popular Akın’in Yeri are our favorite places.
– Karaburun: this is a big route in itself. A large peninsula, you can visit Mordogan and Karaburun. The Daffodil Festival in January and the bays can be visited in summer. Both a family restaurant and a hotel, Lipsos should definitely be on your list for seafood.
– Ödemiş&Birgi: The Saturday bazaar, Töngül pita at Töngül Fırını, Ödemiş Meatballs at Köfteci Hurşit and Nar Danesi in Birgi should be on your list. While you are here, you can also visit the abandoned village of Lübbey.
– Tire&Kaplan Village: Historical Salı Bazaar, Necippaşa Library, Ayhan Usta’s ice cream, keşkek at Kaplan Dağ restaurant…
– Bergama It attracts you especially with its historical richness. Kaikos House for accommodation, Casa Regina for food and Dikili, Bademli Village for exploring.
– Foça is also an extremely quiet route in the North Aegean, especially in winter/spring. The castle and the beach should be explored; Recommendations: Fokai Restaurant, Liman Balık Restoran, Kavala Wine Bar
– Ancient City of Ephesus and Selçuk, Ephesus, one of the most visited ancient cities in Turkey, is also one of the routes you can visit on a day trip. Ephesus Ancient City, Meryamana Church, Sirince Village can be visited within this route. We can recommend Güllü Konakları for accommodation and Yedibilgeler for wine tastings.
– Old Doganbey and Soke, A former Greek village in Söke, Aydın, south of Izmir: Doganbey. Over time, the village was moved down the valley, so it has been well preserved. One of the most beautiful villages of the Aegean. Our recommendations for breakfast in Söke are Yoğurtçu Cavit, Arzun 2 Pide for Söke pita, Bülent Usta Çöp Şiş for Çöpşiş.
Apart from these routes, Çeşme-Alaçatı and Urla, whose guides we have prepared before and which are more popular, are also rich in gastronomy. However, we recommend that you plan longer trips to explore these routes rather than day trips.
Kavacık, Nazarköy, Sığacık & Seferihisar, Çandarlı are other important destinations you can choose.
