A Sporades island where lush green pine forests, unspoilt hidden coves and the Aegean’s clearest waters come together: Skopelos. Whilst everyone seems to have agreed to tour the arid and popular routes of the Cyclades this year, a completely different story is unfolding in one of the Aegean’s often-overlooked yet by far the most beautiful corners.
You’ll probably recognise Skopelos from the legendary musical Mamma Mia starring Meryl Streep. However, this island promises much more than just the romantic backdrop you saw on the big screen; it offers a truly authentic and unspoilt natural landscape. The spots where the dense pine forests, which cover 80 per cent of the island, meet the deep-blue sea redefine what a true seaside holiday is all about. The snow-white houses and dramatic landscapes of the Cyclades are, of course, impressive; but the sense of freedom you feel when diving into the Aegean waters from beneath the shade of the pine trees, or encountering a thousand shades of green at every bend whilst driving along the roads, is something quite apart.
In Skopelos, you can set off on little drives of discovery along the roads winding through the forest in the mornings; in the afternoons, you can swim on a beach away from the crowds, accompanied by the rustling of the pine trees; and in the evenings, you can savour long meals at those marvellous local tavernas—which serve truly excellent food, as experienced through a completely independent and impartial eye, and where we paid the bill ourselves.
In this guide, we present a much more authentic itinerary that goes beyond just the popular film locations; it encompasses peaceful villages on windy hills, wide forest trails where you can relax even with your four-legged friends, and hidden coves that capture the very spirit of the island.
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Thanks to the lush vegetation of the Northern Sporades in the Aegean, Skopelos enjoys a relatively cooler climate compared to other arid islands. It’s a wonderful getaway even in the height of summer, particularly for those looking to escape the scorching heat of July and August and seek refuge in a cooler, more breathable setting. That’s exactly what we did, and we had a wonderful seaside holiday there in July.
However, to experience the island’s unspoilt nature, pine-scented paths and tranquil villages at their very best, the months of May and September–October are definitely the best times to visit. During these transitional months, not only does the sea water reach a perfect temperature, but driving along the island’s winding roads and going for walks in the woods also become a much more peaceful experience.
Although Skopelos may look small on the map, it is an island full of inlets and coves, with forest paths offering stunning views. In this landscape, where travel is largely by car, there’s nothing quite like the freedom of driving at your own pace and exploring every cove. A short 2–3-day weekend might be enough simply to see the few spots in the centre and the main beaches made famous by Mamma Mia.
However, if you want to capture the island’s true spirit, venture down to the wilder coves in the north, spend time at a leisurely pace in good restaurants, and swim at length in those hidden spots where the pine forests meet the Aegean, we recommend setting aside at least 4–5 days. The more bends you take, the more beautiful views Skopelos will offer you. Skopelos lies in the heart of the Sporades; if you’ve made it this far, you can combine it with the islands of Skiathos and Alonnisos, and even create an itinerary that includes the villages around Pelion. A guide to these routes will be coming soon, so stay tuned.
🍽 Restaurants & Taverns
Korali (Agnontas)
Limnonari Tavern (Limnonari)
Agnanti (Glossa)
Rouga (Glossa)
Skopizza (Glossa)
Azan (Skopelos Town)
Finikas (Skopelos Town)
Anatoli (Skopelos Town)
☕️ Cafés, Bakeries & Breakfast
A. Triantafyllou Bakery
Skopelitikes Tiropites Michalis
Anemos Coffee Brunch
Katsiki All Day Cafe (Glossa)
Chora Drink & Savor
Liquid Earth
🍸 Bars
Donkee Skopelos
Paraporti
La Costa
Mercurius Cocktail Bar
SPIRA Skopelos Brewers
The most sensible and enjoyable way to reach Skopelos is to drive to Volos and board one of the high-speed car ferries (such as Seajets) that tour the Sporades Islands. The ferry journey from Volos to Skopelos takes approximately 1.5 hours. However, it is worth bearing in mind that you may lose a little time due to docking and departure traffic at the stopover in Skiathos. If you are travelling by car from the Greek mainland to the islands, you are expected to be at the port at least one hour before departure (although some may arrive later, it is best not to take any risks). Passengers without a car do not need to arrive this early.
As the ferries call at several islands along their routes, the vehicles are arranged inside the ship, much like a game of Tetris, depending on the port where they’ll be unloaded. This process takes a little time, and the atmosphere is pure Mediterranean chaos! But don’t let that put you off – this little bit of chaos is what makes the journey all the more enjoyable.
🐾 Notes for Those Travelling with Four-legged Friends If you’re travelling with your dog, you simply add them to the system along with their weight and passport number when booking your ticket, and you won’t be charged any extra fee. However, a word of warning: Seajets unfortunately directs passengers travelling with pets to the seats in the stairwell. Whilst being away from other passengers and the crowds can sometimes be more calming for our four-legged friends, I must say that the arrangement isn’t particularly comfortable. Especially if there are several dogs on the same ferry, you may have to make do in a cramped space. As this is a domestic Greek route, document checks are rarely carried out; nevertheless, you should always have your dog’s international passport, vaccination card and health certificate to hand.
Alternative Transport Options and Choice of Port Another option for the ferry is to travel via Thessaloniki. However, as there are far fewer sailings, we opted for Volos. If you wish to travel by air, you can fly to Skiathos, Skopelos’s neighbouring island, and from there take a very short ferry journey of around 10 minutes to reach the island.
Skopelos does not have a single main port; ferries usually dock at the ports of Glossa and Skopelos Old Town. We opted for Glossa as it is closer to Skiathos and the mainland. (The same ferry departing from Volos first calls at Skiathos, then Glossa, followed by Skopelos Old Town, and continues on to Alonnisos.)
Port Tips:
Every passenger’s QR code is checked when boarding the ship; please ensure you check in online.
You are not permitted to wait inside your vehicle whilst the journey is in progress; you must go upstairs.
Check the email address you provided when booking your ticket regularly right up until the day of your journey. Depending on weather conditions, the ports of call and departure times may change at short notice. For example, our return ferry was rerouted to Agnontas harbour instead of Glossa, and the departure time was changed. It is essential to keep an eye on your emails to avoid any inconvenience.
The bus network on Skopelos is actually quite good. If you’re planning to arrive without a car, you can still reach the main beaches and villages. However, if, like us, you value your freedom and want to explore every hidden cove, a car is absolutely essential. We had no trouble at all finding parking on the island. There are large car parks in the centre near the harbour, and you can also park at the roadside in the upper areas. We should just add that the dirt tracks leading down to the unspoilt, off-the-beaten-track coves can be quite rough and require careful driving.
Where to Stay? We made a strategic decision regarding our accommodation and rented a village house near Alikias. (We’ll skip that bit without mentioning the name, as we weren’t particularly happy with the house!) However, the location was, in a word, brilliant. We could reach some of the island’s most beautiful spots, such as Agnontas, Panormos or Amarandos, in 15–20 minutes; the centre was the same distance away. We generally organise our accommodation using the same strategy on all the islands. If your priority is to be in the centre, with everything you need close at hand, then staying in Skopelos Old Town or Glossa would be a better choice for you.
If you’re travelling with suitcases and a dog, lugging your luggage around the narrow, stair-filled and, in places, steeply sloping streets of Skopelos town centre can be a real ordeal. That’s why choosing a location away from the hustle and bustle of the town centre—one that’s much easier to reach by car and from which it’s easy to explore different parts of the island—was a real lifesaver for us.
Finding good food on Skopelos is by no means difficult. The restaurants we chose for our evening meals and long lunch breaks, scattered across different corners of the island, were generally of a high standard. Here are our favourite spots, which we stumbled upon whilst charting our own course and for which we can vouch for both the food and the atmosphere:
Korali (Agnontas) This was our first dinner on Skopelos, and it set the bar for the island’s seafood at the very highest level for us. This long-established family-run restaurant in Agnontas harbour prepares classic Aegean dishes using the freshest ingredients and does them absolute justice. The Greek salad with chilli peppers, prawns flavoured with ouzo, squid skilfully grilled on the skewer without drying out, and the orange pie with ice cream to finish were all delicious. Booking is essential for a table right by the sea to watch the sunset. At around €60 per person, accompanied by a bottle of Assyrtiko wine, it was well worth the price for the quality on offer.
Limnonari Tavern (Limnonari) As we mentioned in the section on the beach, this is the perfect place to ‘slow down and savour the moment’. We had a wonderful lunch in the shade of the olive trees. Fried squid, a rocket salad with feta and watermelon, mussels in wine sauce, Skopelos pie… everything was delicious. Being able to relax on the sun loungers right next to the restaurant and take just a few steps to the sea afterwards made this one of our favourite spots on the island. The owners are a family from Grevena – lovely people.
Agnanti (Glossa) Situated on the northern part of the island, on the hills above the village of Glossa, this restaurant is one of Skopelos’s standout gastronomic destinations. It offers dining against a magnificent view of the Aegean. Serving traditional recipes with a modern twist, the venue is ideal for a romantic and elegant dinner, particularly at sunset. Despite the views and atmosphere, the prices aren’t exorbitant. A glance at the menu makes it clear that the owners have ties to Thessaloniki. What we ate wasn’t particularly outstanding or memorable, but everything was well-cooked and a thoroughly satisfying meal. I would just have expected the waiting staff to offer a little more guidance regarding the dishes.
Rouga (Glossa) Another culinary gem that captures your heart with its warm and welcoming atmosphere, which you’ll stumble upon whilst getting lost in Glossa’s labyrinthine narrow streets. With its small mezze platters, local wines, tables spilling out onto the street and friendly service, it’s the very picture of a neighbourhood tavern. A brilliant choice for savouring the spirit of the moment and the local atmosphere. There’s live music four or five days a week. There’s another tavern at the end of the same street; I suppose they’ve chosen different days for the music so they don’t clash.
Skopizza (Glossa) If, whilst on a holiday where you’ve been eating seafood and meze for days on end, you fancy a brief Italian interlude amidst the Aegean flavours, we can recommend this place, which offers some excellent pizza options. We were impressed by their pizzas, made with carefully selected ingredients, and the relaxed atmosphere. We particularly liked the cheeses they used – both the goat’s cheese in the Greek salad and the ricotta-like cheese on the pizza. The pizza base isn’t bad either, though there’s room for improvement.
Azan (Skopelos Old Town) Situated in the centre of Skopelos, amongst the bustling streets, this venue is not only very easy to reach thanks to its location but also offers a satisfying dining experience with its menu. As dishes can sell out in the evening, it’s a reliable choice for those wishing to enjoy a delicious meal in an atmosphere reminiscent of our local eateries, particularly for an early dinner.
Finikas (Skopelos Old Town) For those seeking traditional flavours, this is one of the town centre’s classic tavernas that has stood the test of time. Sitting at the tables set out in that small square where three or four streets meet truly brings to life the spirit of the old-fashioned Greek taverna we’ve all been missing. As well as fresh seafood, the home-cooked stews are also absolutely delicious. We had a village-style chicken with mushrooms and carrots here, and it was marvellous. The fava was also particularly memorable among the meze.
Anatoli (Skopelos Old Town) It’s situated at the very top of the island, right at the foot of the old castle (Kastro). To get there, you’ll need to climb quite a few steps from the town centre, but the unique view from the top is definitely worth the effort. It’s the most popular spot on the island for experiencing a proper Greek evening with live music and stunning views. You’ll need to ring ahead and book a table, otherwise waiting in a queue standing up here can be a bit of a nuisance. The view is stunning and the prices are quite reasonable, but we found the food to be a bit average. The Greek salad and pork steak were just as they should be, but the börek and fried cheese were only so-so. Still, it’s worth a visit for the truly impressive view – just lower your expectations a little when it comes to the food 🙂
Places you can add to your itinerary for morning coffee, a bite to eat to start the day, or a break during the day:
A. Triantafyllou Bakery: One of the places that keeps the island’s warm, traditional neighbourhood bakery culture alive. Picking up freshly baked, fragrant börek and biscuits first thing in the morning is a wonderful way to start the day with a truly local touch.
Skopelitikes Tiropites Michalis: The island’s famous cheese Skopelos pastry (Skopelitiki Tiropita) to try the most famous place. Crispy crispy, spiral in structure a delicious treat to savour.
Anemos Coffee Brunch: One of the top spots for those who want to start the day with a hearty breakfast. The menu even includes ‘Turkish eggs’, but we went for the Skopelos pie again and it was absolutely delicious. This pastry can sometimes be a bit too greasy in some places, but I really liked the version here.
Katsiki All Day Cafe (Glossa): It was one of the few places on the island offering a selection of coffee beans, ideal for taking a breather and enjoying a lovely coffee whilst strolling through the streets of Glossa. We had a late breakfast here; the view was brilliant too. The service was a bit slow, but the dessert they call ‘Milk pie’ – a Skopelos-style pastry – was particularly delicious. The omelettes weren’t bad either.
Chora Drink & Savor: A great option in the city centre for both coffee and light snacks. It opens early in the morning, so you can start your day here with a coffee and a sandwich.
Liquid Earth: A go-to spot in the city centre for those looking for healthy bowls, freshly squeezed juices and good coffee; we popped in for a coffee and had a lovely time. It’s on the same street as Chora and Azan.
After dinner it’s time to get into the rhythm of the island and enjoy a nice a delicious cocktail to round off the day:
Paraporti: A cocktail bar hidden away amongst the narrow streets.
La Costa: The place to go for those looking for a livelier, more vibrant night out. A lovely bar right on the seafront.
Mercurius Cocktail Bar: One of our favourite spots where you can sip a cocktail on a stylish terrace whilst enjoying some great music.
SPIRA Skopelos Brewers: For craft beer enthusiasts, this is the only place where you can sample the island’s own locally brewed craft beers.
Skopelos has made a flying start on our list, ranking among our absolute favourite stops on our Aegean itineraries. The fact that there is no airport on the island has helped it retain its unspoilt and peaceful character; you can easily reach this hidden paradise via a short ferry journey from Thessaloniki or Volos. If you have time, you can even add the other Sporades islands (Skiathos, Alonissos and Skyros) to your itinerary to create a wonderful island tour.
One of the best things about Skopelos is that almost all its beaches can be reached by land (although the dirt tracks to some coves are a bit bumpy, it’s definitely worth the effort). However, there is one exception that simply cannot be overlooked: Drakontoschisma. This enchanting cove, accessible only by sea, is undoubtedly one of the island’s most special spots, and hiring a boat is essential to see it.
Now let’s move on to our favourite coves and beach notes that we discovered from the mainland:
One of the most beautiful coves we’ve swum in on Skopelos! You can get here by boat or by car. If you’re coming by car, you’ll need to drive very carefully on the dirt track. As getting into the sea from the natural rocks can be a bit tricky, you must make sure to bring water shoes with you. There are no facilities in the area, so don’t forget to bring everything you’ll need with you, such as water, food and sun cream. The view towards the back of the cove, especially as the sun sets, is simply magnificent.
This turned out to be one of our favourite beaches on Skopelos. In the shade of the olive trees, an incredibly pleasant spot has been created in the garden of Limnonari Tavern. Here, we fully experienced that independent and unbiased experience that is always our top priority; we spent the whole day enjoying the sea, paying only for the incredibly delicious lunch we’d eaten and without paying any extra charge for the sun loungers. A must-visit spot that appeals to both the stomach and the soul.
After leaving your car in Neo Klima, you’ll reach this hidden paradise with a short walk. The color of the water is truly mesmerizing. There are no businesses on the beach, but you can easily get all your food and drink needs from the town of Neo Klima just before it.
One of the most sheltered coves on the island’s western coast. Although it’s just a small harbour, the sea is crystal-clear. There are several excellent establishments lined up side by side along the shore. During the day, you can take a dip in the sea right in front of Mouria, and in the late afternoon, as the sun sets, you can enjoy exquisite seafood at Korali. However, a quick note: if you want to sit at the tables right on the beach, right by the water’s edge at Korali, you must book in advance.
As it is one of the famous filming locations for the musical *Mamma Mia*, Kastani Beach is one of the island’s most popular and lively commercial beaches. The sea can get choppy depending on the wind direction (unfortunately, that was the case on the day we were there). On the island, sun lounger hire prices generally range from around €15–18 for a set (2 sun loungers + 1 parasol).
Paralia Milia, right next to it, is similarly lovely, but swimming isn’t really possible on days when the sea is choppy (it’s normally quite calm, apparently). As for Ftelia Beach, which is on the same stretch of coastline, it didn’t really appeal to our idea of a peaceful seaside holiday as it has a venue playing loud music.
(Note: We also gave Glysteri – another organized beach on the other side of the island – a go; although the sea there is stunning, we didn’t like the atmosphere or the way it was run at all, so we’d recommend heading to the other coves instead.)
Mamma Mia fans’ favourite is the Chapel of St John (Agios Ioannis Chapel) is located right at the top of this beach. From the chapel looking down, Agios Ioannis beach is a wonderful visual feast for the eyes. There is a small establishment on the beach as well, the chapel after climbing it’s ideal for cooling off.
The island’s two southernmost beaches are located at the southernmost tip. You’ll need to park your car in front of the Stafilos Restaurant and walk a short distance. The right side of Stafilos consists entirely of cliffs, whilst on the left side there is a small single bar and sun loungers. If you walk along the entire length of this beach and climb over the small hill, then you’ll find a much more unspoilt, peaceful and natural a cove that is Velanio Beach comes into view.
A hidden gem at the very northern tip of the island, rarely visited by the tourist crowds. There’s a bar just above the beach where you can sit and enjoy the view, but there are no sun loungers or parasols available down below. It’s perfect for those who want to spread out their own towel and be at one with nature.
In the centre of Skopelos, just behind the harbour, there’s an unmanaged area where you can spread out your towel and go for a swim; it may also appear on maps as Milos Beach. It’s not really worth coming here just for a swim, but if you’re staying in the centre or are short on time, it’s a good option for a quick dip to cool off. Further along, there’s another beach called Paralia Glifoneri, but we didn’t get the chance to visit it.
