Our new Ankara guide is ready, Ulus, one of the most characteristic districts of Ankara. We mentioned that we will prepare different guides by analyzing the regions in Ankara according to their characters. Here is our guide to the Ulus!
The old parliament buildings, Roman Baths, Ankara Palas Hotel, Ankara Castle and the inns around it, Ulus Bazaar, and museums of historical importance are some of the elements that make this historical district so important. More will be added to this list. In the different posts we prepared for the Ulus section, we tried to examine from the İtfaiye Square to the Castle, from the abandoned Jewish Quarter to the most lively streets of the bazaar. While creating these routes, we followed our dear friends living in Ankara and followed their suggestions and routines.
In this list you can find some of our favorite good restaurants and places that are unique to the neighborhood:
Restaurants:
For Döner:
Combining the freshest greens we’ve ever eaten with delicious meatballs Üstünel Köftecisi, with their fast-finishing kokoreç Kokoreççi Hacı Ulus, for meat bread and tahini pita Konya Etli Pide & Tahinli Pide Fırını must try
In the castle area
Things you should definitely experience/see in and around Ulus, Ankara:
On the streets of a now almost completely abandoned neighborhood in Ankara, we trace the traces of an era.
This is the Jewish Quarter between Anafartalar and Denizciler streets at the crossroads where Boğaziçi Restaurant is located. Jews have been living in Ankara for a very long time. Later, with the immigration of Sephardic Jews, the community becomes more crowded. For a long time it was a common living space for people of different cultures and religions. This cultural mosaic started to deteriorate with World War II. Non-Muslims are subjected to bullying that we have often seen in history.
A synagogue built by the first Jews in Ankara still stands in the neighborhood. It is only open for worship at certain times. It is impossible to see through the high walls.
There are also several apartment buildings from different periods in the neighborhood, with curved staircases that bear art nouveau traces. A few have been renovated, but the majority are in poor condition.
As we leave the abandoned streets of the Jewish quarter, Esra and I stop in front of the historical Şengül Hamam. We talk about her frequent visits and internal details. Even if some of these valuable buildings are converted, it is a necessity to put the entire neighborhood under protection. Not many Jews live in Ankara anymore, most of them have moved to Istanbul and Israel.
Located on Denizciler Caddesi, Bogazici Lokantasi is one of the most frequented places for Ankara residents in this area.
A favorite bakery in a back alley of the street: Konya Etli Pide & Tahinli Pide Fırını.
Located on Konya Street, where you can go for the donerMeşhur Ankara Dönercisi.
Located on Kardeşler Street next to Ankara DönercisiSt. Theresa Kilisesi one of the city’s two Catholic churches; The name of the street comes from the Sisters of the Christian Schools, who took over the management of the French College that once stood on the site of the church. The chapel has impressive stained glass windows.
Many buildings in the neighborhood were badly damaged in the fires; Just down the street from the church, Işıklar Cd. and you see the impressive apartment buildings of Ulus. On the corner Erzurumlu Nafiz Bey Apartmanı is one of the buildings that we regret not being utilized again. Built by Nafiz Kotan in 1922, the city’s first apartment building with heating and elevator.
We are meeting with our dear friend @estekin at Kale to honor the spring sun that warms us. For a long time, Esra has been working at Pirinç Han with a multi-disciplinary art community @acikatolyeankara. When our route takes us around the castle, we follow in her footsteps, visiting old neighbors, producers, antique shops, art workshops, and the usual food stalls.
The castle is surrounded by historic inns that open into pleasant courtyards. Our first flavor stop was Cafe Borges located in Pilavoğlu Han. Cafe Borges is one of the places we stop by every time we come here, if it is a short visit, we have a coffee and continue on our way. Esra and I sit down for breakfast this time, our table is colored with a salad consisting of fresh greens, which are identified with the Cafe Borges
One of the delicacies that should not be missed if you catch him around the castle is Ciğerci Sadullah Dayı, we catch him while he is wandering among these inns and continue the flavors with liver between bread accompanied by a short conversation.
After enjoying a small cup of tea at Çelik Çay Ocağı just downstairs after leaving the inn, we follow Esra to explore the surrounding inns.
The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, the Koç Museum and the Erimtan Museum should definitely be visited if you haven’t seen them before; You can stop by Erimtan for temporary exhibitions or visit the café for a coffee break on the terrace.
The Kelime Museum, opened by author Şermin Yaşar, is a small museum where Turkish words, proverbs & idioms are explained with different installations.
Our favorite taste stops:
Another one of our favorite corners to relax Kirit Cafe. For ‘Lost Coffees of Anatolia’Kahveci Müco On our way back, we stop by the Ahi Şerafettin Mosque, whose wooden details we love. The wooden ceiling and columns, the tile mihrab are quite eye-catching. A beautiful example of Seljuk buildings from the 13th century.
In Ulus, an important center of Ankara, we are in the Fire Brigade Square, which dates back to the 19th century; Also known as ‘Hergele (Scoundrel) Square’.
It is an old trading center, still frequently visited, especially for its second-hand goods and antique shops. Despite all the chaos, it is possible to make valuable discoveries in the narrow streets leading to this square.
All the routes we make in these lively streets of Ulus start here, after parking our car in Opera Square we get lost in the antique shops around Fire Brigade Square.
We also have two of our favorite places in this neighborhood where you can quickly get delicious food and drink.
Döner at Karagedik Lokantası: Karagedik, which has been here for 45 years, is a small artisan restaurant; Although it stands out with its döner as an Ankara classic, their menu also includes iskender, chicken skewers & wings, meatballs, tripe soup, and they also make pide and lahmacun in their bakery inside. We didn’t try it but there is also kadayif for dessert if you want to crown your meal with dessert. Made entirely from veal, their doner is quite fatty, just the way we like it. Very tasty.
Kokoreç at Kokoreççi Hacı Ulus: Our other favorite in this area is Kokoreççi Hacı, located in a narrow corner in one of the side streets of the Fire Brigade Square. First of all, let’s be warned from the beginning, the kokoreç runs out very fast, we recommend you to be there at 12.00 and don’t stay too late. The main event of the place is kokoreç but they also make meatballs, you can eat it quickly on the stools set up in front of the tiny shop or you can take it to go. It costs around 70-80₺ (it was) for half a loaf of bread and credit cards are not accepted.
Antique shops, the döner in Karagedik and the fast-selling kokoreç in the inner parts of the bazaar are three reasons to frequent Ulus.
