Puglia is a place where every corner is saturated with sunshine, olive trees stretch to the horizon, and white stone houses lean against the sea. It is a geography that impresses people even without mentioning its cuisine. But of course, we will talk about its food the most.
This land, where burrata, taralli and focaccia barese were born, draws attention not only with its famous flavours but also with the philosophy behind those flavours. Those who know me already know that the mere fact that focaccia originates from here is enough reason for me to talk about bread for hours. But it is not possible that the cuisine of this geography where a delicious bread like focaccia comes from is not rich. At the centre of Puglia cuisine is cucina povera – literally “poor cuisine”. But don’t let this name mislead you. This cuisine is not a deficiency, it is a matter of skill, and if you ask me, it is even a real richness.
For rural Italians this was not an option; it was the only way they knew how to survive. Meat was considered a luxury, and if it was available, the cheapest cuts were bought. The tables were set with plenty of vegetables, legumes, the simplest fresh pasta and whatever came from the fields, and nothing was wasted. Cucina povera was literally “the art of being content with what you have”. In other words, we can say that it is the ancestor of the farm-to-table concept and fancy sustainability issues that are now embraced by all chef restaurants because they are trending.
Puglia is Italy’s largest producer of durum wheat and olives. Half of the country’s olive production is made here. Bread is taken very seriously here, which is why it is seen as the ‘bread basket’ of Italy, pasta is a precious handicraft and the finishing touch of each plate is always a strong olive oil. In Puglia, the ingredients are so prominent that in the middle of the meal, a plate of fresh vegetables can be placed in front of you like a fruit plate. Polignano’s colourful carrots, Bari’s Barattieris will probably be on this plate.
Meals are usually accompanied by a glass of wine made from Primitivo, Negroamaro or Bombino Nero grapes.
For us, travelling is not just being on the road. It is a process that we dream of before we go, experience while we are there and try to make sense of after we return. We try to recognise and learn at every stage. Now it is time to tell what we have learnt in the kitchen of Puglia.
Orecchiette: This fresh pasta, which literally means “little ears”, is identified with the nonnas who open orecchiette on the streets of Bari. Combined with the slight bitterness of mustard herb, it is the most recognisable example of Puglia’s deep-rooted pasta tradition. Of course, it is difficult to come across if you are not in season. One of the most common versions is oreccihette prepared with ragu.
Fave e Cicoria: A simple yet delicious dish of mashed fava beans and wild endive sautéed with garlic and chilli. You can find it in many restaurants, some of them even serve it as an amuse bouche.
Pasticciotto : This small tart originating from Lecce is the star of morning coffee with its vanilla cream. There are variations prepared with many different fillings, such as pistachio, chocolate, hazelnut. It is the most delicious when it comes out of the hot oven, and as @yemekfelsefesi mentioned in his book, it doesn’t look like anything when it cools down.
Panzerotto: a golden coloured, crispy fried pastry. Although it resembles a small calzone in appearance , panzerotto is fried and is famous for the melted mozzarella and tomatoes that flow out of it. It was born to utilise leftover bread dough and has taken root as a practical meal that farmers and fishermen take with them. We can think of it like a biscuit. The word”panzerotto” means”belly” in the dialect of Puglia, a reference to its swollen form after frying.
Sagne ‘Ncannulate: We don’t know if this type of pasta, which is dried by twisting, unique to Lecce, was inspired by the baroque architecture of Lecce in its curves. Its egg-free, plain dough is usually combined with sauces prepared with garlic, olive oil and tomato.
Spaghetti all’Assassina : Bari’s famous spaghetti is cooked in a tomato and peperoncinol sauce. The aim is to create a crispy crust by burning the bottom in a controlled manner. A special academy established in Bari has even set official rules on how to make this pasta 🙂
Scapece di Gallipoli: A preservation method unique to Gallipoli, where fish is marinated in saffron, vinegar and bread to make it durable for a long time. This technique, necessitated by the sieges of the Middle Ages, shows the practicality of the kitchen.
Ricci di Mare: Puglia’s sea urchins are one of the region’s most precious and traditional seafood. They are consumed raw and bought directly from fishermen, especially at open-air fish markets. However, in recent years, increasing demand and overfishing have put sea urchins at risk of extinction. Therefore, in 2023, the Puglia regional government imposed a three-year hunting ban.
Pettole: Soft balls of dough fried in oil. The sweet ones are covered with sugar and the savoury ones can be prepared with cod, olives or anchovies. It is also served as antipasti or amuse bouche in some restaurants.
Calzone di Cipolle: Made with yeast or white wine dough filled with caramelised onions, olives, grapes and anchovies, this onion calzone may suddenly greet you with its smell on the streets of Puglia.
Frittata di Lampascioni: Growing only in Puglia and Basilicata, this slightly bitter onion-like onion species turns into an anti-inflammatory miracle by combining with eggs. It is like a medicine of nature.
Ciceri e Tria: Served with chickpeas , some of this pasta is fried and added on the plate. It is one of the favourite dishes of the Salento region. We had the opportunity to try this dishat Le Stanzie.
Pane di Altamura: Made entirely from durum wheat, this DOP-registered bread is one of the oldest examples of Puglia’s “bread basket”. It is still made in bakeries dating back to the 14th century in Altamura. You can have breakfast with calzone and focaccia in these bakeries.
Focaccia Barese: Garnished with Puglia tomatoes and olives, crispy on the outside and spongy on the inside, this focaccia is one of the most popular snacks of the region. It is also my favourite thing in this life.
Friselle: Friselle, made with the double cooking method, hard and durable, was one of the snacks carried by ancient merchants on sea voyages. Likethe cereals used by the Cretans to prepare dakos salads.
Taralli: Taralli are addictive ring-shaped crackers that are kneaded with white wine and olive oil, boiled and then baked. A favourite snack at aperitivo places in Milan
Burrata di Andria & Stracciatella: Produced since the 1950s, burrata is filled with mozzarella on the outside and a mixture of cream and mozzarella called stracciatella on the inside. The fresh milk taste, combined with olive oil and fresh tomatoes, has an indescribable flavour, needless to say… The burrata of the region is famous, but the ricotta cheeses are also excellent.
Capocollo di Martina Franca: This famous cold meat of the Itria Valley is made from dried spiced pork neck meat. With its intense aroma and aged flavour, it is one of the gourmet heritage of the region.
Carote di Polignano : These carrots, which range incolour from yellow to purple, are native to the Polignano region.
Puccia Pugliese: This sandwich, which is the street flavour of Salento, is made with round puccia bread baked in a stone oven. It is usually filled with cheese, capocollo di Martina Franca or plenty of grilled vegetables. It is one of the indispensables of the locals thanks to its stone oven flavour and its heartiness. The octopus or meatball versions are also very famous.
Primitivo & Negroamaro: These two grapes, grown in the sunny vineyards of Puglia, define the spirit of the region. Primitivo, dark colour, strong body and fruity aroma; named after its early ripening. Negroamaro has drier and slightly sooty notes. What they both have in common is that they are sun-loving grapes that carry the spirit of the earth.
