Thessaloniki and Halkidiki

Thessaloniki is the second largest city in Greece with centuries of uninterrupted city life.

The city has it all. Byzantine churches, Roman ruins, architectural monuments from the Ottoman period, patisseries and authentic taverns shaped under the influence of different cultures… It is no surprise that such a vibrant place was awarded the title of “City of Gastronomy” by UNESCO in 2021. This title recognises not only the richness of its traditional cuisine, but also the city’s openness to innovation and development in gastronomy. It is not a city founded after Greece gained its independence like Athens. It is shown as the second most important settlement after Istanbul in Byzantine history.

There are already many reasons to connect with and love Thessaloniki but the flavours offered by this city are a reason for a journey on their own.

 

Table of Contents

Good Food Guide

Restaurants:
Mourga
Charoupi
Nea Folia
Deka Trapezia
Sintrofi
Maitr & Margarita
Old Athens

Meat dishes, soup restaurants & street food:
-Diavasi
-Diagonios
-Bombidia
-Feyrouz
Salento Wood Fired Street Food
-Pantermos
-T‘Astra

Sweets & Ice Cream:
Armenonville
Trigona Elenidi
Αγαπάμε το κατσικίσιο γάλα 🍦 (only during summer)

Oven

-72H – focaccia sandwich, monkey bun, cardamom bun delicious.
-ΘΕΓΙΑ more than a bakery – good bakery products but. breakfast plates and coffee are mediocre.
-Senol – filled croissants are delicious.
-Bougatsa Bantis
-BougatsaVasilis

Stores:
Olicatessen
Ergon Agora
Dacristo SKG
AgoraModiano

Bar:
Vogatsikou 3🍸
ΦΟΙΝΙΞ ΚΑΦΕΝΕΙΟ
Souel Wine Bar
Dos Margaritas 🍕🍸
Ypsilon🍸
Pizza Poselli

Cafe:
Naked
The Seed
Dekaepta
Estet
Father Coffee & Vinyl
Shed
Ypsilon
Beetroot

We often recommend Taverna O Thodoros, Ramen Tales, Tsinari and Loupino were unfortunately disappointing for us.

The ones on our list but we couldn’t try:

-Rosticceria Di Salonicco
-Poster
-Moldee Bar
-MAREA sea spirit
-Glykanisos
-Gialos Fish Tavern
-Iliopetra
-Laziza Street Food
-Trizoni Exclusive

Landmarks & Museums:

-Atatürk’s House
•Rotunda
-Aya Dimitri Church
-Hagia Sophia Church
•Vlatadon Monastery
-Latomos Monastery
-Galerius Arch
-Archaeological Museum
•Museum of Byzantine Culture
•Teloglion Fine Arts
•MOMus
•White Tower
•Heptapyrgion
•Yeni Mosque
•Alaca İmaret Mosque

8 Recommendations from Thessaloniki

1 – Mourga
Frequently changing menu, quality ingredients, creative dishes and quite accessible prices.

2 – Charoupi
ACretan chef’s masterly flavours of traditional Cretan cuisine. Galaktoboureko 👌🏻

3 – Deka Trapezia
Another modest restaurant where Manolis Papoutsakis produces freer and more creative dishes this time. Potatoes with bottarga 🫶🏻

4 – Sintrofi
Mourga’s sister restaurant, opened a few years ago, is a delightful corner in the hip area of ​​the city. Tartar, cappelletti and gyoza 👌🏻

5 – Bombidia
We tried grilled meatballs, pancetta and fried potatoes in a passage next to the food markets Kapani Market and Agora Modiano, which we can call the heart of the city. Not always to the same standard but generally delicious.

6 – Diavasi
A traditional steakhouse that has been in service since 1977. Soutzoukakia & baby veal steak are our favorites.

7 – Diagonios
Another steakhouse in Fanarioton Square that has been serving since 1977. Pork gyros and beef meatballs are delicious.

8 – Feyrouz
The Thessaloniki branch of a place opened in Athens by a family from Antakya. They offer Levantine street food. Their lahmacun is quite different from ours but ideal for a quick meal with zahter.

One of Our Favorite Restaurants: Mourga

This restaurant was one of the first stops we made during our Thessaloniki holiday. When we saw the menu and started tasting the food, we started to think that we were in one of the best restaurants we tried on this trip. And we weren’t wrong. Everything we love about Greece and Greek cuisine is here, a classic tavern that is original, creative, and respectful of its essence and ingredients: Mourga

There is also an outdoor seating area, but since we arrived a little early, we sat inside to watch the open kitchen. The menus change daily, and the handwritten menu is based on what the suppliers have brought fresh that day and what the sea has offered us. There are also options other than seafood, but we could not taste them.

We ordered one of their breads for a snack before the meal. Instead of the classic breads available in every place , they have a seeded bread (zea) and naan options. It is served with zahter and exme.

As a star ter , we tried the scallops with sooty mussels. Very successful. A dish where the ingredients play a leading role.

Tomato as a salad, watermelon and a hard cheese typical of the island of Naxos We tried the dish prepared with arseniko. All the flavours of watermelon were quite different from what we expected . where it acts as a unifying sauce.

The other dishes we tried were fresh prawns served with a foamy lemon egg sauce, Mussels with frumenty (bulgur with mussels) and “Tuna on the grill” as recommended by the service staff. She recommended the tuna dish especially because she wanted us to try amaranth (vlita greens), a wild herb that Greeks often use.

We chose Chardonnay 2023, Domaine Mikrobios Gastouni with our meals. We paid 28€ for the wine and 114€ for the food. The portions were so big that it was difficult for three of us to finish.

This restaurant has another establishment called Sin Trofi at a point closer to the beach. It is smaller but still very pleasant. Reservation is absolutely necessary. Since it is the holiday season in summer, some restaurants may close for a short time, so don’t forget to check a few places before you go.

A Neighbourhood Hamidiye

Thessaloniki was undoubtedly one of the most cosmopolitan cities of the Ottoman Empire after Istanbul. Home to Greeks, Jews, Turks and other ethnic groups, one of the most interesting areas of this city is the Hamidiye Neighborhood, built in the late 1890s. This area, known as Exoches (outside the city walls) in Greek, was filled with more than 100 mansions and mansions built by the trade and politics of the period. This neighborhood, where the well-educated and elite families of the period lived, was also called Pirghi (towers) because of its houses with towers. For the first time in centuries in the city, people of all religions lived together in this area without being divided into neighborhoods. Since it remained under Ottoman rule until 1912, its traces in the city are still very fresh.

Abdul HamidII, In 1909 he was dethroned and placed in the Villa Allatini in Thessaloniki , the largest mansion in this area. Today, this mansion , where the local institutions of Thessaloniki are located, is home to 700 There was also a ballroom that could host people at the same time. You can seethe garden and the building by asking the security.

The mansion belonging to Mehmet Kapanci (Kapandji) , the fabricator of the period, Casa Bianca , which is associated with a love story, Villa Modiano, Osman Ali Bey Villa, Seyfullah Pasha Villa (Villa Mordach) are still standing and can be seen. Casa Bianca also serves as the Municipal Art Gallery.

King George I of Greece was shot dead in this neighbourhood in 1913 while staying at the now demolished Villa Kleon Chatzilazarou. George I of Greece was shot dead on the street in 1913 while staying in the now demolished Villa Kleon Chatzilazarou in this neighbourhood.

The followers of Sebatay Sevi, who declared himself the Jewish Messiah in the 1660s, who became Muslim in Thessaloniki are called Mamin. It would not be wrong to say that they also live in this neighbourhood.

In this respect, the first Sebatayist mosque , popularly known as Dönme Camiisi ( Dönme Mosque) The New Mosque (Geni Tzami) was also built herein 190 2. Designed by Italian architect Vitaliano Poselli, this mosque has many There is a star of David and Andalusian-inspired details.

Most of these buildings can be seen in Thessaloniki on Leof. Vasilissis Olgas Street in Thessaloniki.

The magnificent bays of Halkidiki

Halkidiki, 1 hour away from Thessaloniki, mesmerised us with its enormous bays! This trip was undoubtedly the best sea holiday of this year for us. With the clear colour of the water, the cleanliness of the beaches, the ease of travel, and the affordable businesses, it seems that we will come once a year.

Halkidiki is a region of three peninsulas south of Thessaloniki.
The easternmost Mount Athos is full of monasteries and is closed to outside visitors. Only men can enter most of the Athos Peninsula, and that ‘s with special permission , so in short, it’s a closed area for tourism.

The peninsula in the middle is Sithonia. Sithonia , a favourite of many of us, is famous for its unspoilt bays and nature.

In the far west is Kassandra. This peninsula is mostly full of hotels and resorts. The sea is again magnificent but quite crowded.

We stayed in both Kassandra and Sithonia. Depending on what kind of holiday you are looking for, you can choose one or stay in both separately like us.

The seas on both peninsulas are beautiful, but we thought Sithonia was a bit more beautiful. The bays in each of them are so beautiful that it is quite difficult to choose. Since we travelled with our car, we usually settled by throwing chairs, towels or used the restaurants on the beach. We did not prefer the establishments with sunbed fees. The ones we came across were quite reasonable spending limits.

Favourite beaches and bays in Sithonia:

– Portokali Beach
– Vourvourou (especially by boat to Blue Lagoon and surrounding islands)
– Spathies Beach (small)
– Platanitsi Wild Beach
– Pigadakia Beach
– Porto Koufo Beach

Favourite beaches and bays in Kassandra:

– Kryopigi Beach
– Pefkochori Beach
– Porto Beach
– Siviri Beach
– Possidi Beach

Don’t forget to take a boat trip!


Turquoise and turquoise between a group of small islands opposite Vourvourou We think you should see the ‘Blue Lagoon’ , which fascinates everyone with its colourful waters.

You need to rent a boat to go to Diaporos and the small islands and bays around it. Since these small boats do not require any driving licence, anyone can be a captain.

Many boat rental companies departing from Vourvourou and Ormos Panagias have similar prices. You pay 100-120€ per day and as much fuel as you spend.

We rented it with ‘Rent A Boat Anna’. After meeting at the pier at 10.00, they gave us a short training (as it was our first time using such a boat). They have almost no English but it doesn’t take long to understand the instructions as it is very easy to drive. Every adult can easily use these boats. Don’t look at what we call a boat, it is a small vehicle. We rented three friends, but it could have been five people. The model we rented was “Blu Water 480”

You can travel by boat until 18.00 in the evening. The fuel inside is enough for almost two laps around the island. Blue Lagoon is one of the most beautiful places you can stop , but other quiet The bays are not bad at all and the water is magnificent. Our favourites were Blue Lagoon, Kryfto Bay and Faros. Some of these islands had summer houses and small hotels. If you want to do a madness and stay on a tiny island, keep it in mind.

Since we did this programme very spontaneously , we had nothing with us. Some snackswith you, maybe a small cooler to keep your drinks cold, music player, plenty of sun cream.

If you haven’t organised snacks , drinks and snacks A small boat selling cocktails is cruising around. We didn’t come across it but there is also a gyros seller.

It was the best experience of this trip. We willdefinitely go again.

9 Recommendations in Halkidiki

First of all, I have to admit that none of the places we tried gave us an unforgettable experience. Perhaps the fact that we had tasted very good food in Thessaloniki before this trip had a lot to do with it. Here are 9 places in Halkidiki that we were satisfied despite everything and that we would recommend:

Fayaz – Located in Nikiti, this place is ideal for a quick breakfast on the way. We liked their cream, cheese and spinach fritters.

Anchor Foodbar – Another breakfast stop in Vourvourou near the beach. Ideal for egg dishes like omelettes and classic breakfast plates. Don’texpect too high expectations.

Sto Kima – Located on Siviri beach in Kassandra, you can have dinner at the tables stretching towards the sea while watching the sunset. Reservation is essential for the best tables. A classic taverna.

Nefeli Garden – Scallops, burrata and fried feta were our favourites at this restaurant with a quiet and pleasant backyard by the sea in Kassandra.

Sousourada – a small restaurant in the pretty town of Afytos in Kassandra. They have both a la carte and set menus. Set menus consist of two starters, one main course, dessert and two glasses of wine. This set menu costs 35€.

Aristos Fish Restaurant – Another seaside taverna in Ormos Panagias, the famous fishing village of Halkidiki. Reservation is a must here too. We triedtarama, fried zucchini, sardines, wild greens and Greek salad. It was a good tavern among the ones we triedin Halkidiki.

Panos Fish Tavern – Located in a quiet bay in the south of Sithonia, this restaurant requires a reservation. Especially the Turkish tourists are concentrated. Although there is a large garden and many tables , the service was never interrupted. The portions are big so order accordingly. The orzo with mussels was our favourite here.

5 Steps in the sand – One of the seaside taverns of Sithonia. The tables on the terraces start directly above sea level. Souvlaki was a bit tough but the moussaka and octopus were delicious.

Barcarolla – located in a small square in Nikiti in the area of old houses. The atmosphere is very sweet, The cocktails didn’t make us happy , but you can still stop by for a drink.

Where to stay in Thessaloniki? Which neighbourhoods stand out?

Thessaloniki and its neighbourhoods

Thessaloniki, located in the north of Greece, is one of the most favourite cities of the Mediterranean with its historical and cultural heritage. The prominent neighbourhoods of this city, which carries historical traces from Byzantium to the Ottoman Empire to modern Greece:

1. Ladadika

Ladadika, which fascinates with its historical atmosphere, is one of the most popular entertainment and dining areas of Thessaloniki. Old warehouses and trade centres have been restored and transformed into stylish restaurants, bars and cafes. It is a good place to enjoy Greek cuisine accompanied by live music, especially in the evening.

2. Ano Poli (Upper Town)

Ano Poli, the most historic neighbourhood of Thessaloniki, takes visitors on a journey through time with its narrow streets, stone buildings and traditional houses. The neighbourhood is full of mosques, baths and fortifications from the Ottoman period. It is also one of the best places to watch the cityscape. Watch the sunset from the Trigoniou Tower.

3. Valaoritou

Popular with young people and locals, this neighbourhood is famous for its nightlife. Old factories and warehouses have been converted into bars, giving the neighbourhood a modern and alternative atmosphere. It is lively all day long with art galleries, small cafes and live music venues.

4. Tsimiski and Aristotelous Square

Along Tsimiski Street , the commercial heart of Thessaloniki boutique shops and famous brands. Aristotelous Square is one of the most iconic spots in the city. Here you can sit in the cafes and enjoy the sea view, You can have a delicious Greek breakfast in the surrounding restaurants.

5. Kastra

Kastra is the walled district of Thessaloniki and offers spectacular views of the city. With its narrow streets and traditional architecture, this neighbourhood is a paradise for those who love taking photos. It is a must-discover neighbourhood for those who want to feel the historical texture of Thessaloniki more deeply.

 

Accommodation in Thessaloniki: Hotels close to Aristotelous Square are a great choice for those who want to stay in the heart of the city. The boutique hotels in the Ladadika area offer a stylish and pleasant atmosphere. In Ano Poli, you can choose small hotels restored in traditional architecture. We stayed in three different locations. We were very pleased with the Halu! houses in Thessaloniki, where we especially stayed. You can find the link here, the location is also magnificent.

Where to stay in Halkidiki ? Which peninsula is for me?

Halkidiki and Peninsulas

Located about an hour from Thessaloniki, Halkidiki is home to some of the most beautiful beaches and natural beauty in Greece. Halkidiki consists of three peninsulas: Kassandra, Sithonia and Athos. Each has a different character and offers plenty of villages and beaches to explore. If you are looking for a more organised and active seaside holiday then Kassandra is the place for you, if you like quiet and unspoilt bays then Sithonia is for you. If you have enough time to see both peninsulas, you can save time by splitting your trip in two and staying in different locations. Staying only in Kassandra and travelling to Sithonia during the day may cause you to spend your trip on the roads. By the way, although the roads are mostly one lane going and one lane coming, it is quite comfortable to drive.

1. Kassandra

Kassandra is the westernmost peninsula of Halkidiki and is often the most popular destination for tourists. It is famous for its stunning beaches, luxury resorts and vibrant nightlife. Naturally, it is more crowded than Sithonia because it is popular, but never think of a suffocating crowd.

  • Kalithea: Known for its stylish hotels, beach bars and vibrant nightlife. It is an ideal destination for those looking for entertainment.
  • Afitos: An authentic village with traditional stone houses and narrow streets. You can try delicious products in the restaurants offering a wonderful Aegean view. It was one of the places we found the most authentic.
  • Pefkohori: A popular holiday resort with long sandy beaches and crystal clear sea.

2. Sithonia Peninsula

Sithonia is located in the centre of Halkidiki and has a quieter atmosphere. It is a favourite for nature lovers with its natural beauties and unspoilt bays.

  • Nikiti: Considered the gateway to Sithonia, this village is famous for its traditional architecture and beautiful beaches.
  • Vourvourou: An idyllic place with marvellous bays, hidden beaches and a tranquil atmosphere. It is especially enjoyable to explore the surrounding islands by renting a canoe or boat.
  • Sarti: This village with a long and wide beach offers impressive views of Mount Athos.

3. Athos Peninsula

Athos is the easternmost peninsula of Halkidiki and most of it is known as the Autonomous Monastic Region of Athos. This area is a religious and historical centre, which can only be visited by men. It is not an easy procedure to visit this monastery area, even if you are a man. But the northern parts of the peninsula are open for tourists, the least visited parts of Halkidiki.

  • Ouranoupoli: The gateway to the Athos Peninsula , this picturesque village is the first stop for those wishing to visit the monastic area. It also attracts visitors with its beautiful beaches and local restaurants.
  • Ammouliani Island: This small island located near the Athos Peninsula, It is ideal for those seeking peace and tranquillity with its calm beaches and crystal clear sea.

 

Accommodation in Halkidiki: Comfortable holiday villages and beach hotels in Kassandra, boutique hotels and bungalows intertwined with nature are popular in Sithonia. We were very pleased with the house we stayed in Kassandra. It is called Sani Gift Villa. We leave the link to this house here. For the Sithonia part of our trip, we took a slightly different decision and rented a house in a mountain village in Halkidiki. We were not very happy with our second home in the village of Polygyros, but we would like to remind you that Halkidiki actually has quiet villages in the interior, which are much less touristic and worth exploring.

Arama

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